Lily's Travel Guide - Amsterdam West

Amsterdam West

Amsterdam doesn't need an introduction. Everybody has heard of it and knows what it's famous for: canal cruises, coffeeshops and museums (world class are the Van Gogh and the Rijks).

But there is more to it. Step outside the touristy city center and explore the borough of Amsterdam West. A lively residential area with a rich variety of people, cultures and history. Let Lily lead you through the streets of the northern half of the borough.

Things to do and see

Lily designed walks through the various neighbourhoods. The walking tours are drawn on this customized google-map.

Sloterdijk

Sloterdijk used to be a tiny hamlet. Then it became an office district around the new train station. And now it is transforming into a residential area.

Leave the train station via the south east exit, signed "Changiweg". Walk down Changi road. See the Train Lodge on your left - restored sleeper carriages turned into a hostal with a pleasant vibe - good place for a coffee too. Pass under the ring road. When there's a low tunnel on your right, turn your back to that, cross the street and take the steps up the ramp on your right.
This is one of the 13th century dykes protecting Amsterdam from the then untamed IJ. Note the typical houses build on the dyke and the small St Peter church with its ancient cemetery in five distinct sections from different eras.
Some 50 meters south of the church you are about to cross a red bicycle road. Stop for a second. What is now the cycle path, used to be the railroad track from Amsterdam to Haarlem. At this spot was a railroad crossing. In the windows of the house at number 24 you'll see some old photographs.
Continue south and cross the Haarlemmervaart and Haarlemmerweg. Now you enter Bos en Lommer.

Bos en Lommer

Bos en Lommerweg is the main shopping street of this neighbourhood. It's the wonderful multi-cultural mix with lots of small shops and Turkish and Moroccan cafes and patisseries, alternated with hip and trendy cafes.

If you come from Sloterdijk, continue the walk here. Behind the Lidl supermarket parking lot is a leafy footpath along the ring road.
The western part of Leeuwendalerspad is a block of tiny houses. Note the hatch that was used to fill the coal cellar.
Walk a section of the Bos en Lommerweg mentioned above and through some greeneries. On your right is a small petting zoo with interesting aviaries.
Over the foot bridge is the Erasmuspark. The eastern section has some old trees and flower fields.
In summer you can have a drink at cafe Terrasmus.
Walk down Vespuccistraat, often called "the most beautiful street of Amsterdam": majestic houses in the Amsterdam School style. The Jeruzalem church is a prime example of the Amsterdam School, with its brickwork, symmetry and art work.
De Krommerdt is the remains of a former river, visible just north of the junction Jan Evertsen / Admiraal de Ruyter. You can actually walk over the old river bed between the houses.
Slatuinenweg litterally means "lettuce garden road". Note the lower streetlevel, this was the original level of the countryside before it became part of the city.
Continue north along de Kostverlorenvaart, a major shipping route.
On your right is the Jan van Galen bridge (don't cross it to stay en route), another example of the Amsterdam School. Note the inscription saying "built in the year 1935".
Rijpgracht is the shortest canal of Amsterdam. The planned continuation was never realized, but there is an underground waterflow to the Erasmusgracht. Take the footpath to the right off Willem de Zwijger passed the houseboats.

Industrial heritage and art walk Staatsliedenbuurt and Westerpark

Start at the Kesbeke gherkins factory, One of the last family-run factories in town. It's open for public on special occasions only. There is a small outlet opposite the factory for exclusive pickles - nice for souvenirs or gifts.
Windmill "De Bloem" at Nieuwpoortkade / Haarlemmerweg is an original windmill, 350 years old, and occasionally running. It is one of two remaining windmills that stood on the original Amsterdam city walls before being relocated to its present spot.
Opposite the windmill, on the corner of the Da Vinci building, is the sculpture "Morgenster" (1994) by Arjen Lancel. It is a tribute to the people who collect the garbage, and to those who roam the streets to find reusable stuff in the garbage. "Morgenstar" means "morning star" and is a local nickname for them.
Walk down the lane lined by house boats and the cemetery. In the bend is the best spot to admire the huge Keith Haring mural. The mural was made in 1986. It has been hidden for decades, was revealed in 2018 and restored in 2020. The building used to be the cold storage facility of the Food Center, the food distribution hub of Amsterdam. The Food Center is currently under reconstruction.
Former drinking water facilities. Amsterdam water comes from the dunes near the North Sea coast and still enters the city via the Haarlemmerweg. See the small photo exhibition inside the entrance of Cafe Amsterdam. See the water tower and old storage building.
(Consider a small detour at this point to visit Koffie ende Koeck, the best patisserie in town.)
Cross the Haarlemmerweg and the Haarlemmervaart. This barge canal was the main transport line between Amsterdam and Haarlem, until the first Dutch railroad was built, which still runs parallel to the canal
Westerpark, a former gas factory from the days of gas lighting, now contains lots of cultural hot spots and hip and happening cafes. Two former gas holders are now ponds, a third one is a studio or theatre.
Walk along renovated factory buildings. Do you know Tony Chocolony chocolate? Here's their outlet and showroom.
Have a look at murals in Hotel Conscious and the painted ceiling in Bar Kantoor depicting early 20th century office life (by Machteld Schouten).
The most western tip is the old city park - no festivals there.
A pedestrian tunnel gives access to the Spaarndammerbuurt.

Spaarndammerbuurt, Houthavens, Zeeheldenbuurt

These three sections connect at the Pontsteiger jetty.

Walk through Spaarndammerbuurt. The whole neighbourhood is a showcase of the architecture and decorative art of the Amsterdam School as well as social housing in the early twentieth century.
Enter Spaarndammerbuurt through the tunnel in Westerpark. Take a left in Zaanstraat (watch for details in the brickwork, note the house numbers), look at museum Het Schip, continue into Zaanhof (the cutest courtyard) and Zaandammerplein.
Cross the S102 tunnel and have a look at the brand new neigbourhood Houthaven, with the giant Pontsteiger building dominating the skyline.
Walk through Prinseneiland and Bickerseiland in the Zeeheldenbuurt. Miniature Amsterdam with canals and old houses. At the south end of Pontsteiger cross Westerkeersluisbrug, Van Diemenkade (left off the street, pedestrian strip with nice harbour views, Van Diemenstraat, Westerdokdijk, have a look at Het Stenen Hoofd. Backtrack via Barentszplein to Barentszstraat, via Zoutkeetsplein to Zoutkeetsgracht, via Zandhoek to Bickersgracht, via tunnel under the tracks and Buiten Oranjestraat where you take bus 21 west or continue to Haarlemmerdijk (shopping street).
Make a minicruise over the IJ on the free public ferries. Take the (free!) ferry from Pontsteiger to NDSM (Coffee break?). There you can take a ferry to Central Station and bus 21 back to West (or vv).

Getting around

Amsterdam is small and doable by foot, but in the end it is a lot of walking to get around. Especially if you commute between West and the city center.

sloterdijk train station West has its own train station, Sloterdijk, just ten minutes from the airport. International buses also terminate here.
Bus 21 is the artuary between West and the Central train station.
Tram 5 takes you from Van Hallstraat, via Leidseplein and the Museum square, to South and Amstelveen.
Tram 19 takes you from Sloterdijk station, via Bos en Lommer, to the cinemas and theatres of central Leidseplein and Rijksmuseum and further to the eastern subburbs.
sloterdijk train station Metro 50 and 51 connect train stations Sloterdijk, Lelylaan and Zuid; stop De Vlugtlaan is convenient for Bos en Lommerplein and Bos en Lommerweg.

Public transport operators

If you tap in/out, you won't notice it, but if you use day tickets for e.g. NS or GVB, it is important to understand the various public transport operators.

NS runs the trains in most of The Netherlands. E.g. to Haarlem, Zaanse Schans, Utrecht, Delft or Schiphol.
GVB runs the city busses, trams and metro in Amsterdam. Their busses are blue/white.
Connexxion and EBS are some of the regional bus companies that have some busses run into the city. E.g. from Haarlem, Zandvoort, Schiphol, Zaanse Schans, Volendam, Edam. Their busses are usually green or red.

Public transport tickets

To get around by public transport, the best deal is to get a 1- 2- 3- up to 7-day GVB day ticket as soon as you arrive. 1 ride/1 hour is €3.40, 24 hours for €9.50, 48 hours for €15.50, 72 hours for €21.50. See remarks (*) below.
Day tickets are for sale in the GVB office in the white building opposite Central Station and at the train stations Bijlmer and Zuid.
Or download the GVB app, buy a ticket online and use the barcode you receive to check in and out.

If you think you will just make a couple of trips per day, it is better to pay per ride. Simply use your contactless credit card or debit card to check into the bus or tram. Don't forget to check out with the same card when you leave the vehicle. Each person needs their own unique card to check in.
(*) If you check in and out with the same bank card all day long, you will never pay more than €10.00 for your GVB journeys. This makes it hardly worthwhile to buy a 1-day-ticket. But note this is "same day" where as the 1-day-ticket really is a 24-hour-ticket.

If you plan to do some travel in the Amsterdam region, you may consider the Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket. For €21.00 (1 day, €31.50/2 days, €40.50/3 days) you get to travel all trains and buses to/from Zandvoort, Haarlem, Zaandam, Volendam, Marken, Hilversum, Almere, Lelystad, Aalsmeer en Schiphol airport. Check their website for locations of sale - a.o. NS Tickets & Service at Schiphol Airport(open 24/7); Holland Tourist information at Schiphol Airport (near Arrivals 2); I Amsterdam Visitor Centre at Amsterdam Central Station.

Or get the I AMsterdam city card, which includes public transport, museums and a cruise. Rather more expensive.

Getting to/from the airport

From Schiphol Airport, take a train into town. For Amsterdam West there are no less then 4 possible train stations.

Go to Central station and then take bus 21 to Staatsliedenbuurt or Bos en Lommer, or take bus 22 or 48 to Spaarndammerbuurt.
Sloterdijk station and then walk or take tram 19 into Bos en Lommer.
Lelylaan station and then take metro 50 or 51 to De Vlugtlaan; from there walk or take bus 21.
Zuid station and then take metro 50 or 51 to De Vlugtlaan, or bus 15.

For Amsterdam City Center it is usually best to take a train to Amsterdam Central and walk or take a tram from there. For some areas it is better to take a train to Amsterdam Zuid and then metro 52.

All of this works to as well as from the airport. And then there's bus 247 from Bos en Lommer to the airport, it only runs one way and only has three runs very early morning.

Dinner and drinks

All of these can make you something vegetarian, even if it isn’t on the menu.

Sloterdijk

De Sering, lunch and dinner for very affordable price in an informal setting, or a top end 7 course set menu. Rhoneweg.
The Breakfast Club, breakfast, lunch and drinks right next to the train station. Changiweg.
Train Lodge, coffee and snacks in catering carriage, Changiweg

Bos en Lommer

Buongiorno, coffeebar, breakfast, lunch, Admiraal de Ruyterweg / Bos en Lommerweg ®
Betawi, family-run Indonesian restaurant, dinner, Admiraal de Ruyterweg ®
Florya, Turkish restaurant, superb lunch buffet, Bos en Lommerplantsoen / Erasmusgracht ®
Bir Tat, Turkish lunchroom, Bos en Lommerweg
Kratiam Thai, Thai restaurant, dinner, Bos en Lommerweg
Mogu malatang, Asian fusion restaurant, lunch and dinner, Admiraal de Ruyterweg
Podium Mozaiek, cultural center, breakfast, lunch, coffee and drinks, Bos en Lommerweg

Staatsliedenbuurt

Koffie ende Koeck, superb vegan patisserie, coffeebar and lunchroom, Haarlemmerweg ®
Surikitchen, authentic Surinam take-away (some seating), Tweede Nassaustraat
Vlees noch vis, vegan take-away (some outdoor seating), Van Hallstraat / Schaepmanstraat
Pie-Nong Thai, authentic Thai take-away (some outdoor seating), Nassaukade
Croissanterie Balans, plain Maroccan patisserie, coffeebar and lunchroom, Van Hallstraat / Schaepmanstraat
Amsterdam, cafe, drinks, Watertorenplein

Westerpark

Buurtboerderij Ons Genoegen, informal country feel, drinks, lunch and dinner (limited), gardens, Spaarndammerdijk *temporarely closed*
Westergasterras, trendy cafe, drinks, Klönneplein

Accommodation

Amsterdam West has plenty of hotels in all price ranges. They are slightly cheaper than in the city center, but don't expect a bargain (except mid-week off-season).

There's a cluster of hotels around Sloterdijk train station. Meininger; Teleport Amsterdam Hotel; Hotel2Stay; the Train Lodge, where you sleep in old sleeper train carriages; XO Hotels Park West. Though it is getting better, the Sloterdijk area still has the feel of a business district, so don't expect lively street scenes or cozy cafes.

More into the residential part of the borough, there's XO Hotels Blue Tower; WOW Amsterdam, another hostel; Camp Inn.

Map

Click the map to go to a customized google-map, showing main public transport routes, walking tours, main sights and selected restaurants.
The walking routes allow lots of shortcuts.

On a small screen, tap the title to see key to map symbols. If you are signed in to google, you can use the map to navigate.