Lily's Mini Travel Guide -
Deira: the other side of Dubai

Dubai

Dubai is sooo much more than an expensive shopping mall or a wannabee influencer hangout spot with futuristic buildings and artificial islands. Dubai is also a lively, multi-cultural town on the creek, with old ships and a maze of narrow alleys where life and work happens on the streets. Tourists, well-paid expats and immigrant labourers make for an interesting scene.

A stay or a stay-over in Dubai doesn’t have to be all that expensive, it can definitely be cheaper than Europe.

Our favourite place to stay is in the Gold Souk area, near the Creek. It is part of Deira, the area north of the Creek / west of the airport. Many things are within walking distance, while the Gold Souk metro and bus station keep you connected with the airport and the modern parts of Dubai. Lots of South Asian restaurants allow for a decent and affordable meal.

Getting around

Dubai Airport (DXB) is one of the busiest in the world. It makes a big difference what terminal you have. Terminal 1 and 3 are modern and connected to the Dubai Metro Red Line. They each have their own metro station! Especially Terminal 3 is huge and even has an internal shuttle train to move you around. So, allow plenty of time to get to your gate.

Terminal 2 is where the low-cost carriers go. It is basically a big shed. There is no internal way to get to Terminal 1 or 3. There is no metro. But they do have a bus stop with a direct bus to the Gold Souk.

On arrival at immigration you are handed a free sim card with 24h of data. There are ATMs in the arrival hall.

To use the metro and bus in Dubai you should get a Nol card (one per person). You can buy a Nol card from a RTA ticket office at a metro- or bus-station, or from a vending machine. If you have arrived at Terminal 2 of the airport, then you can buy your Nol card at the convenience store near the exit to the bus stand. The Silver Card is the regular card. Charge it and check in and out wherever you go.

The metro red line and green line are the core of Dubai public transport. There are two interchange stations. Buses take you to more specific places. Note that many bus stops have air-conditioned waiting areas.

Things to do and see

We won’t try and list all the sights in modern Dubai. Dubai Mall, the Dancing Fountains, Museum of the Future, Burj Khalifa, Palm Island - the list goes on. There are other sources for that.
Plus there are excursions such as desert safaris by camel and/or four-wheel drive (mind your back!).

In Deira (north/east of the Creek), some things to do are:

• Visit the covered area of the Gold Souk, though you may find this a bit touristy.
• Also covered and with a more authentic feel is the Spice Souk.
• Wander the small streets surrounding the Gold Souk, the Spice Souk and the Old Souk. These are all very lively streets with a mix of old shops and more touristy stalls. Most shop keepers in this area seem to come from South Asia.
• The Creek riverfront or boulevard.
• You can wander the smaller streets towards Naif neighbourhood. Stay south of Sikkat Al Khail rd and Naif rd / west of Omar Bin Al Khattab for the small shops.

South/west of the Creek:

• You can make a circular walk: cross the Infinity Bridge (go up and down by elevator) or take the pedestrian tunnel parallel to the Al Shindagha tunnel. Wander south, pass Al Shindagha Historic District. Next is Grand Souk Bur Dubai for your souvenir shopping. Further east along the Creek is Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood. It has renovated historical buildings; you can admire the windcatchers and mud houses. Backtrack a little to take a ferry back to the north bank.
• Not near Deira, but worth a bus ride is one of the city beaches. E.g. Jumeirah Public Beach can be combined with a visit to the Iranian Mosque.

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Accommodation

We like the Ibis Styles Dubai Deira for its friendly staff, pleasant rooms, roof top swimming pool and last but not least its location. Some rooms have Creek view, but that may change once a new row of buildings along the Creek is completed. It’s just 200 meters from the Gold Souk Metro station (Green line) and bus station.

There are plenty more hotels in the area, some cheaper, some more expensive.

Restaurants

Again, you can eat in any price range. For vegetarian options, Indian restaurants are the easiest choice, but a Middle Eastern and Lebanese restaurant should suit you as well.
You can get snacks, fruit and yoghurt from tiny shops or from the modern Al Madina Hypermarket behind the Ibis.
Do note alcoholic drinks are not available.

Very close to the Ibis is ZAK Pakistani/Indian. It is open 24/7, you can sit outdoors with Infinity Bridge view, the staff is friendly and the food is cheap and good. Good for coffee, refreshments, lunch and dinner.

Across Al Khaleej street on Al Khor street is Amba on Al Khor street, hidden inside HKH Hotel. It has a mix of Middle Eastern and Indian food and big portions. Good for lunch and dinner.

Also, across Al Khaleej, in between the new jewellery shops, are several restaurants and coffee shops:
My Govindas, Indian. Good for lunch (better deal) and dinner.
KP Chai on Maryam Plaza, with outdoor seating, is a dead cheap place where locals and immigrant labourers go for coffee, tea, snacks and lunch.

A little further away, a short metro ride or a longer walk, are:
Aroos Damascus, a Lebanese restaurant on Al Maraqqabat street.
Al Mosul, an excellent Iraqi restaurant on Al Mateena street (a wide boulevard with trees and a green center area; in the evening people stroll here). Good for lunch and dinner.

Map

Click the map to go to a customized google-map, showing main sights and selected restaurants and walking tours.

On a small screen, tap the title to see key to map symbols. If you are signed in to google, you can use the map to navigate.

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