Lily's Mini Travel Guide | Malaysian Jungle Railway and on to Hat Yai
Jungle Train
The main railway from Singapore to Bangkok runs along the west coast of Malaysia. But there is a branch that takes a more central and eastern route. It branches off at Gemas and rejoins the main line in Hat Yai (in the south of Thailand). At the time of construction, this was largely covered in jungle, hence the nickname. The center and east is still the less developed and more conservative part of the Malaysian Peninsula.
This article covers things to see and do along the Malaysian Jungle railway and in the connecting part through southern Thailand. It focuses on the practical side of how to get things done. For a more personal account go to this blogpost.
Things to do and see
As the name suggests, the two main sights are the jungle and the railway.
Nowadays large parts are developed or abandoned plantations, but you will still see patches of jungle.
The more to the north you come, the more jungle.
Until suddenly you reach the delta of the Kelantan river: vast plains and rice fields.
The railway itself is being upgraded. The rolling stock are modern comfortable diesel carriages.
The stations are also being rebuilt, which is a pity for the more romantic old wooden buildings.
The towns along the jungle line are small, with a very small town center, and maybe some new shopping strips somewhat further afield.
In Gemas the old railway station is converted into a sort of museum.
The old building is renovated and some old rolling stock is on display.
Kuala Lipis once was a gold mining town. The British made it the capital of the state/sultanate around 1900.
When the railway line came to town in 1922, development took a leap and a handful of colonial buildings were built:
the railway station, the British Residency (on Rest House Hill), the Pahang State Secretary Residency (now Muzium Warisan Lipis) and the State Mosque. They are worth a look.
Gua Musang is dominated by huge karst rocks towering above the old and the new station.
Click here for details on a short walk and climb.
On the platform of the old Gua Musang train station turn right, heading south.
At the end of the platform, go down the steps and cross the railway.
A path leads into a very small kampong of shabby wooden houses.
Follow the path between the houses, also south.
Cross the stream over a narrow concrete dam.
Shortly after that turn left and cross the stream again via a slightly larger concrete dam.
Now you are just 10 meters from the rock wall, with a jagged edge of jungle in front of it.
There is a sort of path leading up between the gigantic trees.
With the help of ropes you can go further up.
There is a ladder that you can climb to go into a cave.
⇒ If you want to make this walk, make sure to assess the risks.
Kota Bharu is a big city with malls, facades inspired by Arabic motifs, mosques and palaces. There are still pieces of old kampong between high-rise buildings. A footpath along the river from Jalan Sultan to Jalan Che Su makes a pleasant walk.
Click here for details on a walk in the kampong.
This walk starts at the Istana Kota Lama, an old palace on Jalan Sultanah Zainab.
Opposite the palace take Jalan Kubur Kuda.
Just meander with the road. Some houses are old and dilapidated, others still look well maintained.
It is quiet and peaceful. A few houses must have been villas in their day:
large, beautifully designed, with hexagonal extensions and verandas.
You can walk all the way to Jalan Sultan Ibrahim, or take a right 100 meters earlier at the crossroad.
That will take you to KB Mall. Across the street from the Mall is M Star cafe, a lovely veg lunch restaurant.
Yala is a vast, quiet, green city. There is a large district with all provincial institutions, built in circles around the city pillar.
The roads are quiet and wide and lined with trees.
The city pillar is located in a temple in the middle of a round park with fish ponds.
Transport
The railway is un-electrified and single track, but it is smooth and has modern comfortable aircon diesel carriages. The main stations are also new.
When we traveled all trains had plenty of seats available, except for the night train (ERT26). Note that only the night train has catering.
With the help of this time table you can decide where to break your journey in such a way that you travel everywhere by day light.
Station / Train number |
SH34 |
SH36 |
SH58 |
SH60 |
ERT26 |
Gemas |
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Jerantut |
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Kuala Lipis |
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Gua Musang |
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SH52 |
SH56 |
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↓ |
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Dabong |
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Pasir Mas |
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Wakaf Bahru |
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Jerantut is the gateway to Taman Negara National Park. Most common access is a bus or taxi to Kuala Tembeling, where you take a boat to the Park.
Kota Bahru does not have a railway station in town. The nearest is Wakaf Bahru, where you can take a taxi into town. Or deboard the train at Pasir Mas railway station. A little to the left from the exit you will find a busstop. Bus number 6 or 29 take you into Kota Bahru. Bus number 29 takes you to Rantau Panjang, the border town for Sungai Kolok.
From Kota Bahru the same bus number 29 to Rantau Panjang leaves from a small inner city bus station on Jalan Hilir Pasar.
For departures times see picture. It takes about an hour.
The bus drops you right in front of immigration. You walk over the bridge to Thailand.
Then it's another 800 meters to the railway station in Sungai Kolok.
If you travel in the three southern provinces of Thailand (Narathiwat, Yala or Pattani), make sure to assess the risks.
Check your own government's travel advice and check local news.
Station / Train number |
452 - Ordinary |
170 - Rapid |
172 - Rapid |
464 - Ordinary |
38 - Special Express |
Sungai Kolok |
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Yala |
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Hat Yai |
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Bangkok |
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Accommodation
In Gemas hotel Tropicana is decent and quite OK.
In Kuala Lipis the Lipis Plaza is 900 meters from the station. It has nice rooms with balcony in front, and rooms directly overlooking a strip of jungle in the back.
M Quality and Phoenix are close to Gua Musang railway station.
Crystal Lodge is one of several mid-range choices in Kota Bharu.
@INN YRU is on the campus of Yala university. The rooms are very good.
It's a bit of a walk from the railway station, but close to the new spacious circular part of town.
Vegetarian food
Vegetarian food is not as abundant in central/east Malaysia as it is in Kuala Lumpur and Georgetown. But you should manage.
In Gemas VGreen ® is a lovely veg lunch restaurant, somewhat hidden in a new block.
For coffee or a snack try the kopitiam in the old railway station.
In Kuala Lipis the Kuzah Stesen Komuter Cafe just in front of the station does a decent lunch. Abe Jo Cafe can fix you some dinner.
Gua Musang does not have much to offer on the culinary front. You may end up at the Pizza Hut.
Kota Bharu: M Star Cafe ® is a real vegetarian buffet style lunch restaurant, a rarety in this part of the country.
Shan Sri Dewi is an Indian with veg options.
Tiny Elephant ® is a pleasant and modern place with fantastic deserts.
There are several nice kopitiams, eg opposite the Crystal Lodge.
Pickpockets in Sungai Kolok is a good place to kill time with coffee or lunch while waiting for the train.
Diggin Indian Cafe in Yala is a very nicely decorated place, alas it has limited veg options.
Map
This is a 1920 map of the original railways built in Malaysia and southern Thailand.
Note how little has changed apart from some closed branches.
® => Lily's recommendations
*last update April 2023*
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